A garage floor that stops being the worst surface in the house.
The floor most people call us about, built to take a car, a jack and a dropped wrench.
Insured and bonded · 5 years · every floor poured by the owner
Get a free quote
Photos and rough square footage get you a real number.
A garage floor gets treated worse than any surface in the house.
Concrete is porous. It drinks oil, it dusts under tires, and once a stain is in there it stays. A resin floor closes the slab off for good.
Hot tires sit on it. Jack stands punch into it. Road salt comes off the car all winter and oil finds every pore. Bare concrete has no defense against any of that, which is why a ten year old slab reads gray in the middle and black where the car parks. A resin floor puts a sealed, chemical-resistant surface over the whole bay so spills wipe up instead of soaking in, and the room stops making dust every time you sweep it.
Every Every garage floor we install starts the same way: the slab gets ground down with diamond tooling until it is clean, open concrete. Coatings do not stick to sealed, dusty or oily surfaces, and no amount of good resin fixes a bad grind. That is why we own the grinders instead of renting them by the day. we install starts the same way: the slab gets ground down with diamond tooling until it is clean, open concrete. Coatings do not stick to sealed, dusty or oily surfaces, and no amount of good resin fixes a bad grind. That is why we own the grinders instead of renting them.
We work out of Goldsboro and cover 10 counties across eastern North Carolina, roughly 60 miles in every direction. If you are inside that circle, we will come look at the floor.
Recent garage epoxy flooring work
The same bay, four days apart.
That is a new-construction slab, which people assume is the easy case. It still got ground open with the machine you can see in the first frame, because a power-troweled floor is sealed tight and resin will not bite into it. The gold and black came out of the same bucket system we would pour in a forty-year-old garage.
How the job runs.
01. Walk the slab
We come look at the actual concrete. Moisture, cracks, old coatings, how the light hits it. You get a number that day and it does not move later.02. Grind it down
Diamond tooling takes the slab down to clean, open concrete. This is the loud, dusty, unglamorous part, and it is the part that decides whether the floor holds.03. Fix what the grind finds
Cracks get chased out and filled. Pits get patched. Control joints get treated so they do not telegraph through the finish six months later.04. Pour
The resin goes down. On a metallic floor this is the part that cannot be redone, rushed, or handed to somebody else.05. Topcoat and cure
A clear topcoat locks everything in. Light foot traffic the next day, vehicles by day three or four depending on temperature.Who actually pours it.
Beto Ponce does the pours himself. The person who quotes your floor is the person standing on it with a squeegee.
Insured and bonded, 5 years in, and a Facebook page where every job we finish goes up. Have a look at the gallery or tell us about the slab.
What happens before any resin comes out of the bucket.
The slab goes under a diamond grinder attached to a dust extractor. That takes off whatever is sitting on the surface, old sealer, paint, glue, curing compound, and opens the concrete pores so the coating keys into the slab mechanically rather than sitting on top of it. This is the single biggest difference between work that lasts and work that peels, and it is the reason we own the grinders instead of renting them by the day.
What the grind exposes then gets dealt with. Cracks are chased out into a V and filled with a rigid repair resin so they do not telegraph back through. Pits and spalled patches get filled and re-ground flat. Control joints get treated so they can still move without splitting the finish above them.
Then the slab gets vacuumed, twice, because a coating over dust is a coating over nothing. Only after that does anything wet touch the floor.
The resin is the cheap part and the fast part. Everything that decides whether a floor is still holding in ten years happens before it.
What owning this floor is actually like.
Cleaning is a dust mop and, when it needs it, a bucket of warm water with a little dish soap. No sealing, no waxing, no annual re-coat. Skip the acid-based cleaners and anything with citrus solvent, and put a mat under the jack stands if you are working on a vehicle regularly.
Damage, when it happens, is almost always the topcoat rather than the floor underneath. A gouge from a dropped tool sits in the clear, which means it can be sanded and re-coated in that spot without touching the color layer. That is the practical advantage of a built-up system over a one-coat paint: the sacrificial layer is the one that takes the abuse.
The failure mode worth understanding is moisture. Concrete on grade pushes water vapor upward for its whole life, and if that vapor meets a coating that cannot breathe it collects underneath and lifts it. That is what people are describing when a floor bubbles or peels in sheets a year in. We test for it before quoting rather than discovering it afterward.
Against the alternatives.
Against a roll-on kit from the hardware store, the difference is prep. A kit goes over sealed concrete with an acid etch that does not open the pores properly, so the coating sits on the surface instead of keying into it. Against tile, resin has no grout lines to stain and no individual pieces to crack when something heavy lands. Against bare sealed concrete, it stops the dusting that makes a garage feel permanently dirty no matter how often it gets swept.
Read about the grinding step that every one of these systems depends on, or look through the gallery to see the finishes side by side.
Questions about garage epoxy flooring
How long does a garage floor take?
Most two-car garages are a two day job. Grinding and prep on day one, coating on day two. You can walk on it the next morning and park on it in three to four days once it has cured.
Do I have to empty the garage?
Yes, completely. We need the whole slab open to grind it. Plan on the garage being empty the morning we start and staying empty until the floor takes weight.
Will it peel like the kit I bought at the store?
Store kits fail because they go over sealed concrete with no mechanical prep. We grind the slab open first, which is what lets the resin key into the concrete instead of sitting on top of it.
Can you coat a floor that already has something on it?
Usually. Old paint, failed sealer, and most previous coatings come off in the grind. If there is a moisture problem underneath we will tell you before we quote it, not after.
Is it slippery when wet?
A smooth topcoat is slick wet, same as polished concrete. For garages, patios and pool decks we broadcast an aggregate into the topcoat so it grips. Say the word and we will spec it.
How much does a floor cost?
It depends on square footage, the shape the slab is in, and which system you want. We quote off the actual floor, not a phone guess. Call (919) 440-1333 and we will come look.
Ready to talk about your garage epoxy flooring?
Send photos and rough square footage. We will tell you what it takes.
Call and you get Beto Ponce, not a call center. Or look through the gallery first.
(919) 440-1333